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Tunisia 2008

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Tenere Legend Festival

Trip Reports

SUBSTITUTE XT GIRL

BIKE PREP - AFRICA STYLE

GIRLY PACKING

FIRST BLOOD - SAND

CAMPING IN HEAVEN Camping in Heaven

DESPERATE FOR DOPE

WITCHDOCTOR'S RIDE

WATER BAPTISM

ACCIDENTAL PILLION

XT Girls History

The Bikes

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Witchdoctor's Ride

By Mardi-Louise

The sangoma, dressed in a smart suit, was evidently on his way to do some juju business, judging by the gruesome paraphenalia on the seat next to him.

I ran out of petrol about 10kms outside of Nokaneng!

How bloody frustrating! John 's tank still had some juice - so we decided to split up: John should head on to Nokaneng, see if he can get some fuel, and then come back to get me.

In the meanwhile, I 'll throw myself at anything that comes past, in the hope of catching either a drop of petrol - or a lift for me and my bike, into Nokaneng.

John disappeared off the horison, and I suddenly felt terribly forlorn: we haven't seen any vehicles all morning - chances of anything, let alone a conveniently sized truck, coming to rescue me, is slim.

Worse case scenario - we have to wait for the support vehicles, which are about half a day behind us.

Damn! We were desperate to hit the Nokaneng-Dobe section before midday - since its going to be TOUGH.. and we need all the time we can get.

After, what seemed like an eternity, a white van approached on the horizon. I literally jumped in front of it to make it stop: as I leant into the drivers window to speak to the driver, something black and hairy, brushed against my face.

I shrieked in horror - obviously expecting the worse; and upon seeing the offending object, thought it IS the worst: its a Sangoma's ceremonial stick... with a ox's hairy tail attached to the end!

The sangoma, dressed in a smart suit, was evidently on his way to do some juju business, judging by the gruesome paraphenalia on the seat next to him.

I gushed and cajoled and breathlessly (and as vulnerable looking as I can muster with a bull's tail hanging in my face) explained my predicament.

I was hoping to hitch a lift for BOTH myself and the bike - but soon realised that loading it with Dr. Witch in his suit, may not be advisable.

He suggested I hide the bike, and enthusiastically directed me from the side of the road, whilst I heaved and pushed the bike over the rough ground, to 'hide' behind a tree.

"No, no, I can still see it!" he waved frantically, "Push it over! Put some branches over it!"

It was all I could do not to crease up with laughter at the craziness of the situation - but eventually he was satisfied, and beckoned me back: "Ok, good, lets go now, hurry up!"

By the time I slid into the seat next to him (having carefully shoved the plethora of animal bits and bones to the side), I was sweaty, full of thorns and hands full of grass stains.

And then, just as we pulled away, the trucks appeared in the rearview mirror.

Bloody hell! Couldn't plan it worse!

Out I jump, thanking the Sangoma, shoving 20 Pula into his palm.

Reversing the whole pelarva of retrieving my bike from the bushes, my tank is finally filled up from the jerry can.

I took off, chasing after John, passing the frantically grinning Sangoma on the way.

Another day of crazy Africa magic!